Saturday, April 19, 2008
Monday, February 25, 2008
Long Seridan to Ulu Magoh 7Feb-13Feb2008
The Trek That Was
BY FAYE OSMAN{max_recipients:20}
1:36pm Sunday, Feb 24
This post about the recent trek is long overdue.While my triathlete friends have come nearer to the "true meaning of life" after being humbled by the intensity of the Ironman at Langkawi yesterday, I too have been humbled, in a different kind of way.It all started with a trip to Bikepro in late December last year, when I wanted to get a box to pack my triathlon bike for shipment to Miri. Boon Foo, the proprietor, told me of his impending trip to Sarawak during Chinese New Year to meet the Penans. He and his gang will be trekking from Long Seridan into the interior to meet as many Penan settlements as they could find. Their objective is to aid the Penan children by sponsoring them in their education.Me, being the unemployed, freelance photographer wannabe that I am, jumped at the chance to trek into the rainforest. Boon Foo wasn’t convinced at the time that I could handle such ‘extreme conditions’. Hahaha, well … I’m here writing about the trip now, so I figured I did just fine (for a first time overnight trekker).So, between the months while waiting for the day to arrive, I did my preparations which included plenty of cardio and strength workouts (at the gym and at Lambir Hills national park trail), hiking gear purchases (haversack, sleeping bag, dry sack etc) and also some ‘extras’ like a portable storage device and additional batteries for my camera.Trek members were Boon Foo, his wife and daughter, Yatie (a teacher) and her husband Doc Param (an MD), Thomas (an IT personnel at CIMB) and myself.This trek was not part of any tour package. It was self-arranged by Boon Foo via his contacts in Long Seridan. The trek was inspired by Bruno Manser (the Swiss Penan activist) and the book by James Ritchie.Here was what we went through:Day 1: Long Seridan to Ulu Magoh (11 hour trek)We arrived at Long Seridan via Maswings twin otter flight at around 11.30am. After meeting our guides and getting supplies, we were advised to tackle Ulu Magoh first because it is a tough route. Our guides estimated that we would reach there by 6pm. Little did we know they had underestimated the time it’ll take to reach the destination. It took us 11 hours!We started at 1 pm and trekked up to 12 midnight! We got separated into two groups. The first group reached Ulu Magoh before 12 am, but my group got lost along the way and opted to camp by the river until the next morning. This particular trek was the single most HARDEST thing I’ve ever done physically. I do believe I am not exaggerating when I write that if you fall down those steep hills or get pulled by the strong current of the river, well … you could end up dead.The route takes you up onto steep hills, treacherous ridges, slippery downhills, river crossings with strong currents … and you had to do it in the forest at night! It doesn’t help that I had to carry a heavy 15kg load on my back!I fell so many times during river crossings at night. I had so many leech bites. I got bitten by fire ants while scaling a steep wall. My spirit nearly broke because the tough route really wrecked havoc on my mental strength, especially during nighttime in the jungle.Day 2: Recovery at Ulu MagohAt dawn, the Penans came to our campsite to lead us to their settlement. The first group who arrived late the other night was already sleeping safe and sound. We arrived at the village about 7.30 am. The longhouse is in fact a huge hut built with tree logs held together with rattan strings, and old zinc sheets as roof materials. We spent the whole day here recuperating, and getting to know the friendly semi-nomadic Penans.Day 3: Ulu Magoh to Long Balau (11 hour trek)We got ourselves three Penan guides from Ulu Magoh to lead us to Long Balau. The first hour of the trek was spent climbing up steep hills inside the forest. After that it was walking on paved timber track all the way. The elevation we were on was quite high. At some point, we were at the same level as the clouds! The view was spectacular, as we could see Gunung Mulu from where we were. After walking for nearing 11 hours, we arrived at Long Balau village at 6.30 pm.Day 4: Recovery at Long BalauWe spent the day recuperating. The Penans here are settled, and very well-off from the semi-nomadic ones at Ulu Magoh.I finally ate some sago grubs. Delicious! Hahahha, I want to have more. I read there's plenty in Limbang :PIt is here that I got 'stalked' by a Penan woman named Marina. Oh my God, she was like my shadow, wanting RM10 for cigarettes and asking for extra pants and sarong. On one hand I sympathize with her situation at being located in a remote place, but to disturb us incessantly (especially me) was rather annoying.I kept thinking about the people at Ulu Magoh, about how they had so much less than the people here in Long Balau, but never asked anything of us.Day 5: Long Balau to Long Seridan (6 hour trek)We departed for Long Seridan at 8 am, with three guides from Long Balau accompanying us. The route to Long Seridan is half forest and half timber track. The trek was not really tough, but it was interesting, taking us through scenic river and stream crossings. As we proceeded along, two more Penans joined us, and before long we were all laughing at the jokes the happy-go-lucky bunch were cracking.We arrived at Long Seridan at 2 pm but not before crossing the mighty Seridan river.Upon reaching Long Seridan, we decided to take the flight to Miri from Marudi instead, since the flight from Long Seridan is not a certainty because the plane will only land when the weather permits. After asking the locals on the best route to go to Marudi, we were advised to go to Long Meraan and catch a 4WD to a jetty where the express boat will take passengers to Marudi.That evening, the six of us went to Sekolah Kebangsaan Long Seridan to take photos of the Penans kids there, as well as to hand them ang-pows and other goodies. The photos will be used for collecting funds back in KL. I intend to submit mine to photo agencies for editorial content, so that their plight will gain exposure (acceptance to these agencies is tough, so I'm crossing my fingers).Day 6: Long Seridan - Long Meraan - Long Bedian (Longboat + 4 wheel drive)Early morning, we took a long boat (commandeered by our host and hostess at Long Seridan) to the small village of timber workers at Long Meraan. A 4 wheel drive arrives early morning to drive the timber workers to work and returns them at noon. We hitched a ride on the 4 wheel drive to the Kayan town of Long Bedian when it arrived at noon time.Boon Foo, Thomas and I sat at the rear trunk of the 4WD. The funny thing was at first we were so excited at the 'first class view' we had at the back, but half an hour later we all fell into silence because the 4WD took we waaaaay up above sea level, and we were shivering!At Long Bedian, we decided to spend the night because it was raining, and no 4WD was willing to drive to Temerlak.Day 7: Long Bedian - Temerlak - Marudi ( 4 wheel drive + express boat)In the morning, we hired a 4WD to take us to the small jetty at Temerlak. At 10.30 am, the express boat arrived to take us to Marudi for a two hour ride on the Baram River. At Marudi, we found out that the next day flight to Miri was limited to 5 seats. Thomas and I opted to take the available flight to Miri that evening, while the others spent the night at Marudi for their flight tomorrow.All in all, I had fun. Sure I fell countless of times, in a ditch, in the river, on the trail with my foot wedged INSIDE A LOG. I lost a toenail, I had infected blisters, I have scratches and bruises all over my leg. And hey, I sure as hell mastered the art of peeing in the bushes. But I still had fun!I have HUNDREDS of pictures which will take weeks to process because it is in RAW format. To process each one and to apply artistic treatments on them in Photoshop will take ages, so I've uploaded some using Adobe Lightroom's export action plug-in directly to Flickr. You can view some of them there.Now if only I can wrestle my laptop away from that little dictator ...
Monday, December 31, 2007
G. Batu Puteh; Into the Heart of Semai Country
By Forest Gan, Aug31 to Sep 3 1986
Gunung Batu Puteh: 6993ft (8th highest in Peninsular)
Location : 101 27 E 4 16 N.
This mountain view becomes more imposing from the 9th to 15th mile Cameron Highlands road. The top of this stretch shrouds in cloud most of the time. It looks like a whale-back in sea of cloud. Batu Puteh is where one of the white granite cliff hanged at 5000ft is prominently observed from the towns of Tapah and Bidor. The west flowing Perak river and east flowing Pahang river receive its water souces from here.
In 1884, Father Scortechini, a missionary from Australia ascended the mountain from Kuala Woh (7th mile Cameron H'lands road). A longhouse Church on all bamboo walls was erected and rebuilt till this day at the 3rd mile, K Woh road. He collected plants in Perak till 1886. In the Malayan Flora, more than 10 mountain flowers are named after him. The 20 sen Malaysian stamp, green based, yellow flower portrays Rhododendren scortechinii.
In his "Jungle is Neutral" chapter 12 Map 4, Major FS Chapman descriped British Force 136 hidden camp at BT. Belantan and on the shoulder of G. Batu Puteh in 1943. The British guerilla force was in the jungle alongside the Anti-Japan guerilla(MPAJA). It was here in K. Woh of Batang Padang, he and Major General Lim Bo Seng waited for a meeting with Chen Ping.
In 1953, clinic outposts served by helicopters were established across the mountain pass. Fort Titom and Fort Sheam among the Semai are maintained as longhouse clinics. Pamela Gouldsbury described her role in Batang Padang where Williams- Hunt, an Ethnographer lived and died in an accident.
At the K. Woh water chlorination station, our PMM climbing party consist of 15 members and 2 Semai guides.
The followed and crossed the rocky and crystal-clear Sg Woh. Footpath was well used. Despite yesterday's rain, it was leech free on the trail. Fish traps were found in a section of Sg. Bemban tributaries. We started the climb across a newly slash-and-burn ladang. Dry hill rice and maize were mixed crop. The whole field was covered with black soil and charred woods.
Into the hill forest, bamboo thicket fringed the trail. Pineapples were planted in row. Meranti of the Shorea spp. stood out with 20ft Bertam palm. Rattans, mainly the Calamus, thorny Daemonorops spp. formed the under layer community. Towards the 2000ft contour, we found rattan animal traps. Trail was cleared by Semai rattan harvesters. It was so far easy long slope uphill to 3000ft contour. We crossed path with 4 young Semai coming down, one of them holding a medicinal plant root. This was typical Hill Dipterocarp with oak acorns(Lithocarpus) littered the floor. I would say it was a clean, relatively undisturbed, pristine rain forest.
Cutting through bars and thorns, tree fern fronds, we were up 4,500ft contour. Then a drop down to a valley, we encountered a unique 70ft outcrop. Thw west face where we entered was overhangs forming a trignometric 45 deg. cave-in. Large enough to sleep 80 persons. Light was dim, we prepare to camp. The sedimentary rock is 1 inch long white pebbles in a pink-yellow mudstone matrix. Temperature dropped to 17*c at 11.30pm. The overhang stretched from west to northwest. A spring runs through rock fissure below NW. This was our last drinking water up the summit.
Around camping cave is abundant with flora; herbs, pink flower Phyllagathis, dark blue Didissandra filicina, hairy purplish Begonia decora, painted leaf Argostemma pitctum, palms, small-fan Licula, Iguanura and Pinanga polymorpha. Ginger plants, tall wild banana and thick forest close-up from all sides.
Our guides purposely avouded a direct climb beside the 150ft white cliff, the so called Batu Puteh. While contouring 4800ft, the lower portion of it partly obscured by deep tall trees, could be seen. The vegetation marked a change. Pentaphragma scortechinii, tree ferns epiphytic orchids abundant. An Ipoh creeper(Strychnos genus) was pinpointed by guide. Its poison latex boiled to concentrate can be used like Ipoh tree poison.
We crossed many streams where granite surface outcropped. On checking Map sheet 66, G Batu Puteh psn grip point 825665. It is the source of tributary of Sg. Telom.
It took 1 hour to gain 1000ft to emerge at a long summit ridge running North and South. We trekked a short distance South to look at the true Batu Puteh. According to local Semai , it is a hill on the 6000ft spur. The so called white cliff hanged 1000ft below. For the 1st time we had open view. At eastern edge, precipitated the source of Sg. Sungkai valley. On this narrow ridge, grass and Nepenthes Sanguinea covered the ground. Rhododendren malayanum, Rh. jasminflorum, orchid Dilochia, Malayan wintergreen Gaultheria leucocarpa, Vaccinium scortechinii were found. I sat for 15min intoxicated by this beauty. To the North, a pink cliff below which a giant mountain fish-tail palm (Caryata aequatorialis) stood out in the canopy. The trig station was covered by cloud. We proceed northerly.
The mossy ground was covered with orange-red parasitic Balanophora globosa( genus close to Rafflesia) and its ripen G-shape inflorescene. On branches hanged Dendrobium orchid with long stem, purple flower at node tip. I have not seen such a rich forest at this height in Malayan Moutains( even the Agathis forest saddled between G. Tahan and G. Gedong is no equal).
Lip-stick plant Aeschynenthus put out a show on ground moss lichen, fungi pink Sonerila, white Didymocarpus, dropping of yellowflower Rhododendron robinsoni( it grows high on the tree branches), rattans, white Spathoglottis orchid, Pinanga palms, mountai gingers fringed the trail.
It rained and we took longer than we thought to cover 3 km ridgeway. For the summit is ellusive since we started at 9.50am. Last night he warned us not to do so fearing that" mountain will run firther away." The Semai revered mountain spirit.
We arrived at the Trig Station of Batu Puteh wet and trembling. It was 13deg C at 5;45pm, 1st Sep 1986. I rejouced over the shining orange-yellow Rhododendron scortechinii flowering on the summit.
As early as 1884, plant hunter Father Scortechini and later 1890, R. Wray visited. Rh. scortechinii has its centre of distribution here and extends its range to the north limit at G.Wray(6817'). The yellow coloration on the 20 sen stamp is perhaps based on portrayal of its type spacimen which Father Scortechini first collected at G. Bubu (5437'). This orange-yellow species at Batu Puteh shows up the best form and color.
With the rain, night temperature drops to 10deg C. In the leaking tent, without sleeping bag, I lay a sleepless night. Cross talked with me spiritually were the mountains and flowers.
Most of us were up by 6.30am trying to take a shot at sunrise. One of the last visitor recorded on a fallen tin sheet "Perak Topo Surveyor, 11 june 1924. Ibrahim Bin Sidik.
Thermometer reads 11 deg C at 7;15am. By 9am, the mist clear and we had a spendour view of the Main Range mountains. With a binocular, we saw the white structure of Strawberry Park of Cameron Highlands 20 mile to the north.
It took us only 4 hours to return to the camping cave. Camp fire was lighted, our heart warmer. Next day we set off at 11am. A steep relief well used by Semai people was followed. This shorter route provide a glimpse of this beautiful forest. Sampling of "Tongkat Ali" (Eurycoma longifolia) a traditional Malay medicine were abundant on the trail. We were out at K. Woh water intake by 5pm.
References:
1. Account of an Expedition to the Batu Puteh and Ulu Batang Padang Mountains 1887, Cecil Wray Perak Museum Paper.
2. The Ascent of G. Batu Puteh, D.F. Grant (Malay ForesterV.9 1948 )
3. Jungle is Neutral - Spencer Chapman
4. Jungle Nurse - Pamela Gouldsbury(1960)
5. Malayan Chinese Resistance - Chapter 5 Force 136 Col. Chung Hui Tsuan.
6. An Introduction to the Malayan Aborigines - William Hunt
7. Rain Forest Collectors and Traders - Dr. F.L. Dunn
8. The Semai- Robert Knox Dentan
9. A blueprint for conservation in P. Malaysia - MNS
10. Tropical Rain Forest Ecology - D.J. Mabberley 1983.
Gunung Batu Puteh: 6993ft (8th highest in Peninsular)
Location : 101 27 E 4 16 N.
This mountain view becomes more imposing from the 9th to 15th mile Cameron Highlands road. The top of this stretch shrouds in cloud most of the time. It looks like a whale-back in sea of cloud. Batu Puteh is where one of the white granite cliff hanged at 5000ft is prominently observed from the towns of Tapah and Bidor. The west flowing Perak river and east flowing Pahang river receive its water souces from here.
In 1884, Father Scortechini, a missionary from Australia ascended the mountain from Kuala Woh (7th mile Cameron H'lands road). A longhouse Church on all bamboo walls was erected and rebuilt till this day at the 3rd mile, K Woh road. He collected plants in Perak till 1886. In the Malayan Flora, more than 10 mountain flowers are named after him. The 20 sen Malaysian stamp, green based, yellow flower portrays Rhododendren scortechinii.
In his "Jungle is Neutral" chapter 12 Map 4, Major FS Chapman descriped British Force 136 hidden camp at BT. Belantan and on the shoulder of G. Batu Puteh in 1943. The British guerilla force was in the jungle alongside the Anti-Japan guerilla(MPAJA). It was here in K. Woh of Batang Padang, he and Major General Lim Bo Seng waited for a meeting with Chen Ping.
In 1953, clinic outposts served by helicopters were established across the mountain pass. Fort Titom and Fort Sheam among the Semai are maintained as longhouse clinics. Pamela Gouldsbury described her role in Batang Padang where Williams- Hunt, an Ethnographer lived and died in an accident.
At the K. Woh water chlorination station, our PMM climbing party consist of 15 members and 2 Semai guides.
The followed and crossed the rocky and crystal-clear Sg Woh. Footpath was well used. Despite yesterday's rain, it was leech free on the trail. Fish traps were found in a section of Sg. Bemban tributaries. We started the climb across a newly slash-and-burn ladang. Dry hill rice and maize were mixed crop. The whole field was covered with black soil and charred woods.
Into the hill forest, bamboo thicket fringed the trail. Pineapples were planted in row. Meranti of the Shorea spp. stood out with 20ft Bertam palm. Rattans, mainly the Calamus, thorny Daemonorops spp. formed the under layer community. Towards the 2000ft contour, we found rattan animal traps. Trail was cleared by Semai rattan harvesters. It was so far easy long slope uphill to 3000ft contour. We crossed path with 4 young Semai coming down, one of them holding a medicinal plant root. This was typical Hill Dipterocarp with oak acorns(Lithocarpus) littered the floor. I would say it was a clean, relatively undisturbed, pristine rain forest.
Cutting through bars and thorns, tree fern fronds, we were up 4,500ft contour. Then a drop down to a valley, we encountered a unique 70ft outcrop. Thw west face where we entered was overhangs forming a trignometric 45 deg. cave-in. Large enough to sleep 80 persons. Light was dim, we prepare to camp. The sedimentary rock is 1 inch long white pebbles in a pink-yellow mudstone matrix. Temperature dropped to 17*c at 11.30pm. The overhang stretched from west to northwest. A spring runs through rock fissure below NW. This was our last drinking water up the summit.
Around camping cave is abundant with flora; herbs, pink flower Phyllagathis, dark blue Didissandra filicina, hairy purplish Begonia decora, painted leaf Argostemma pitctum, palms, small-fan Licula, Iguanura and Pinanga polymorpha. Ginger plants, tall wild banana and thick forest close-up from all sides.
Our guides purposely avouded a direct climb beside the 150ft white cliff, the so called Batu Puteh. While contouring 4800ft, the lower portion of it partly obscured by deep tall trees, could be seen. The vegetation marked a change. Pentaphragma scortechinii, tree ferns epiphytic orchids abundant. An Ipoh creeper(Strychnos genus) was pinpointed by guide. Its poison latex boiled to concentrate can be used like Ipoh tree poison.
We crossed many streams where granite surface outcropped. On checking Map sheet 66, G Batu Puteh psn grip point 825665. It is the source of tributary of Sg. Telom.
It took 1 hour to gain 1000ft to emerge at a long summit ridge running North and South. We trekked a short distance South to look at the true Batu Puteh. According to local Semai , it is a hill on the 6000ft spur. The so called white cliff hanged 1000ft below. For the 1st time we had open view. At eastern edge, precipitated the source of Sg. Sungkai valley. On this narrow ridge, grass and Nepenthes Sanguinea covered the ground. Rhododendren malayanum, Rh. jasminflorum, orchid Dilochia, Malayan wintergreen Gaultheria leucocarpa, Vaccinium scortechinii were found. I sat for 15min intoxicated by this beauty. To the North, a pink cliff below which a giant mountain fish-tail palm (Caryata aequatorialis) stood out in the canopy. The trig station was covered by cloud. We proceed northerly.
The mossy ground was covered with orange-red parasitic Balanophora globosa( genus close to Rafflesia) and its ripen G-shape inflorescene. On branches hanged Dendrobium orchid with long stem, purple flower at node tip. I have not seen such a rich forest at this height in Malayan Moutains( even the Agathis forest saddled between G. Tahan and G. Gedong is no equal).
Lip-stick plant Aeschynenthus put out a show on ground moss lichen, fungi pink Sonerila, white Didymocarpus, dropping of yellowflower Rhododendron robinsoni( it grows high on the tree branches), rattans, white Spathoglottis orchid, Pinanga palms, mountai gingers fringed the trail.
It rained and we took longer than we thought to cover 3 km ridgeway. For the summit is ellusive since we started at 9.50am. Last night he warned us not to do so fearing that" mountain will run firther away." The Semai revered mountain spirit.
We arrived at the Trig Station of Batu Puteh wet and trembling. It was 13deg C at 5;45pm, 1st Sep 1986. I rejouced over the shining orange-yellow Rhododendron scortechinii flowering on the summit.
As early as 1884, plant hunter Father Scortechini and later 1890, R. Wray visited. Rh. scortechinii has its centre of distribution here and extends its range to the north limit at G.Wray(6817'). The yellow coloration on the 20 sen stamp is perhaps based on portrayal of its type spacimen which Father Scortechini first collected at G. Bubu (5437'). This orange-yellow species at Batu Puteh shows up the best form and color.
With the rain, night temperature drops to 10deg C. In the leaking tent, without sleeping bag, I lay a sleepless night. Cross talked with me spiritually were the mountains and flowers.
Most of us were up by 6.30am trying to take a shot at sunrise. One of the last visitor recorded on a fallen tin sheet "Perak Topo Surveyor, 11 june 1924. Ibrahim Bin Sidik.
Thermometer reads 11 deg C at 7;15am. By 9am, the mist clear and we had a spendour view of the Main Range mountains. With a binocular, we saw the white structure of Strawberry Park of Cameron Highlands 20 mile to the north.
It took us only 4 hours to return to the camping cave. Camp fire was lighted, our heart warmer. Next day we set off at 11am. A steep relief well used by Semai people was followed. This shorter route provide a glimpse of this beautiful forest. Sampling of "Tongkat Ali" (Eurycoma longifolia) a traditional Malay medicine were abundant on the trail. We were out at K. Woh water intake by 5pm.
References:
1. Account of an Expedition to the Batu Puteh and Ulu Batang Padang Mountains 1887, Cecil Wray Perak Museum Paper.
2. The Ascent of G. Batu Puteh, D.F. Grant (Malay ForesterV.9 1948 )
3. Jungle is Neutral - Spencer Chapman
4. Jungle Nurse - Pamela Gouldsbury(1960)
5. Malayan Chinese Resistance - Chapter 5 Force 136 Col. Chung Hui Tsuan.
6. An Introduction to the Malayan Aborigines - William Hunt
7. Rain Forest Collectors and Traders - Dr. F.L. Dunn
8. The Semai- Robert Knox Dentan
9. A blueprint for conservation in P. Malaysia - MNS
10. Tropical Rain Forest Ecology - D.J. Mabberley 1983.
Sunday, December 30, 2007
G. KORBU:THE FIRST ASCENT, JUL 4, 1986
CLIMBING G KORBU - ON THE TRAIL OF SG SENOI TOWARDS THE NORTH RIDGE. The following is an interesting narrative on plant and personal experience of Forest Gan. LOcation- 101 18E 4 41N. The riverain trail up to 2750' gave one a strong impression of disturbed forest. We had tramped upon the country of Temiar people. The climb started from base camp at 1750'While contouring 3000', we were surprised to meet Agathis alba of good timber size. At contour 3750' a waterfall was met. This our last drinking water source up the mouontain. The steep climb turned NE away from the river. Forest weed, thorny bertam plam fringed the trail. Onwards to 5000' we first met Dacrydium beccarii, the montane tropical pine. Baeckia frutescens, Bambusaelegans( the thinnest mt b
amboo of 3mm diameter)and Rhododendron spathulatum formed thickets. R. Spathulatum with elegant orange-red flower is conspicuos. The Australian sea-shore shrub Leucopogon malayanus which is characteristic of Tahan Range is locally abundant. Pitcher Plant Nepenthes Macfarlanei show off its red dotted color. After a easier gradient we struck upon the main range with E and S direction. We were S-bound for Korbu. We emerged on an open srub at 6000' on the Kelantan- Perak divide. Looking N the valley of Sg Korbu which drains from G. Gayong(7129') cuts deeply. Further NE G. Bubu(6474') is blue and the sharpest peak of all. G. Yong Yap(7113') view captured me. I was exhilarated. Oh, the S-wing from Sg.Kinta valley was most invigorating. I cannot bear but cry to the 7 mile distant mountains. It was 5pm and the air was most abnormally dry and warm. Continuing due S, we trekked under mossy cloud forest emerging many times to meet Lepospermum flavescens(NZ's tea tree) dominant with dark pitcher Nepenthes gracillima on its canopy. I experienced the trill of joy to walk on the true roof of Malay Peninsular. The night was bivouacked on a open scrub at 6300'On the ledge, I lay 6 hour sleepless night in the open. Temp was 15C. The 1st party arrived at summit by 9.45am. I counted more than 10 peaks over 6500'. Yong Blar(7156') knife edged separated the true Cameron H'lands of Kelantan side where Sg. Brooke raises its source. Further N are G. Sepat(7091') and G. Chamah(7123'. To the E, Tahan Range appears in dim hue, it was far
far away.(65 miles)
amboo of 3mm diameter)and Rhododendron spathulatum formed thickets. R. Spathulatum with elegant orange-red flower is conspicuos. The Australian sea-shore shrub Leucopogon malayanus which is characteristic of Tahan Range is locally abundant. Pitcher Plant Nepenthes Macfarlanei show off its red dotted color. After a easier gradient we struck upon the main range with E and S direction. We were S-bound for Korbu. We emerged on an open srub at 6000' on the Kelantan- Perak divide. Looking N the valley of Sg Korbu which drains from G. Gayong(7129') cuts deeply. Further NE G. Bubu(6474') is blue and the sharpest peak of all. G. Yong Yap(7113') view captured me. I was exhilarated. Oh, the S-wing from Sg.Kinta valley was most invigorating. I cannot bear but cry to the 7 mile distant mountains. It was 5pm and the air was most abnormally dry and warm. Continuing due S, we trekked under mossy cloud forest emerging many times to meet Lepospermum flavescens(NZ's tea tree) dominant with dark pitcher Nepenthes gracillima on its canopy. I experienced the trill of joy to walk on the true roof of Malay Peninsular. The night was bivouacked on a open scrub at 6300'On the ledge, I lay 6 hour sleepless night in the open. Temp was 15C. The 1st party arrived at summit by 9.45am. I counted more than 10 peaks over 6500'. Yong Blar(7156') knife edged separated the true Cameron H'lands of Kelantan side where Sg. Brooke raises its source. Further N are G. Sepat(7091') and G. Chamah(7123'. To the E, Tahan Range appears in dim hue, it was far
far away.(65 miles) Sunday, December 23, 2007
Penans of Long Naring near Long Seridan 2005
2005 CNY holidays at Long Naring about 1 hour by 4 wheel drive from Long Seridan.
2nd from left is Asik Nyelik, headman of Sg Ubong and 5th from left is Dawat Lupung featured in the book "PENAN - Voice for the Borneo Rainforest" by Dr. Wade Davis.
Dawat, born in 1963 , was raised as a nomad in the forest of the Melinau river. On November 6, 1989, Dawat Lupung became the recipient of the 1989 Reebok Human ights Award, an award established to honour individuals who, early in their lives and against all odds, have significantly raised the awareness of human rights and exercised the freedom of expression.
In an interview, Asik Nyelit had this to say;
"My people have lived in Sg Ubong since the days of Tamen Tering, who later was succeeded by Tamen Laje, who was succeeded bt Paren Kusin, who was succeeded bt Dulit Lesu, who was succeeded by me. There are other headmen before Tamen Tering but now they are gone".
Kg Raja to Gua Musang 17/4/85 - 24/4/85
Expedition Leader - Zaharan Razak
Route Plan:
Day 1 : Kg Raja to Blue Valley Tea Estate. Continue for another 30mins to Penangau where is an overnight camp.
Day 2 : Penangau (4,800ft) to Fort Brooke (1,961ft) 5 hours, 17km. Clear track. Going down most of the way. Camp at Fort Brooke. Orang Asli village with school and clinic, also Army checkpoint. Penghulu Alang Inchah Bin Busu.
Day 3 : Fort Brooke to Mengrod (978ft) 4 hours 12km. Both difficult and easy sections encountered along this route. Slippery, pacat can be found. Mengrod is another OA village. Penghulu Mentri Awol Bin Kechik.
Day 4 : Mengrod to Reloi (700ft) 4 hours. Difficult section of 12km. Many ascents and descents. Predators frequent this section. Reloy is also a OA village. Penghulu Yaman bin Pandak.
Day 5: Reloy to K. Mering(650ft). 4 hours 9km. Another difficult section with ups and downs. No accommodation at Mering. OA hands to prepare bamboo rafts here. They are to be hired for the work in advance. Liase thru JOA in Tanah Rata.
Day 6 : Kuala Mering to Pos Belau. 35km by raft, whole day. Watch out for a stretch of spectacular and dangerous rapids called Jeram Gajah!. The OA raft makers will travel back from Belau to Mering by boat. School, clinic, army post at Belau. Penghulu Angah bin Jagah.
Day 7 : Post Belau to Kuala Betis. 30km 3 hrs by boat. JOA post here. Adequate facilities like a Rest House here. Kuala Betis is at the confluence of Sg Betis and Sg Berok where they form the Sg. Nenggiri which in turn flows into the Sg Kelantan.
Day 8 : Kuala Betis to Gua Musang. 34km by Land Rover. Overnight train back to KL.
More pictures at www.pbase.com/tanboonen/cameron_highlands_-_gua_musang
Cameron Highlands to Gua Musang 17/4/1985
Expedition Leader - Zaharan Razak.
Objectives - experience the many aspects of mountaineering - conceiving, planning, organising, physical fitness training, mental preparation.
Trail description : Kg Raja is 20km from Tanah Rata. The route starts at Kg Raja elevation 4000ft descents to 400ft at K. Betis. In between, the highest point is Penangau (4,800ft). The total distance is 60miles, of which 25miles is on foot, 20miles by river and 15 miles by Land Rover. All the overnight stops are in Orang Asli settlements.
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